39 Model Aviation OC TOBER 2013 www.ModelAviation.com
To help determine the correct dihedral, the author made
this jig from a cardboard box. He spot glued each wing to
the fuselage and after drying, attached the struts.
The fuselage is
covered with yellow
Esaki tissue. A hinged
door will be attached
to the open area aft
of the firewall for the
A top view of the
fuselage shows the
Ember motor. Don’t
cover the top until
and control rods are
situated and the
center stringer is in
A BSD GWJ 7mm GB Red
motor with gearbox was easily
mounted using two carbon-fiber rods. It also uses a very
small propeller adapter.
Photos by the author
The wing is constructed in a manner similar to the open-rib
design that Walt Mooney used on his small, rubber-powered
Scale designs. This design makes for a lightweight wing and the
upper and lower portions of the ribs are strengthened
by the spars that are glued to each rib.
Make a plywood pattern for the upper curved ribs
and cut them from 1/16 sheet balsa. The lower rib is 1/16
square stock. If you want a true scale rib placement,
follow the placement shown on the Triggs’ three-view.
The tips are laminated from four 1/32 x 1/8 balsa
pieces. Wet, bend, and glue them on a form using
Titebond glue. Let them dry overnight before
You can make the center of the
wing and glue it to the top of the
fuselage after you have decided where
to place the brick receiver and battery.
I mounted the receiver/servo brick to
1/16 sheet glued to the 1/16 square lower
After covering and painting, I spot-glued the wings to the center section in
two places. You may want to construct
a jig to hold the wings to the proper
dihedral while gluing the wings and
struts, and let the assembly dry.
Construct the tail surfaces as shown
on the plans. I used a slightly different
method for hinging the rudder and
elevator. I wanted to use hinges that
offered the least resistance to the
tiny servos. I am a fly fisherman, and
I decided that my fly line leaders (or
tippets) might be ideal for this purpose.
Cut a length of lightweight
leader material and draw it through a folded piece of black
400-weight emery sandpaper to give it a bit of tooth for gluing.
Then take a hand pin vise with a micro drill and make holes at
the hinge locations.
After the tail surfaces are covered and painted, cut a proper
length of the leader and use CA glue to anchor the hinges. Be
sure and use the gussets shown on the rudder and stabilizer,
because without them the tissue covering may form a wrinkle
on sharply angled corners.
I prefer models such as this to have a finish similar to the
full-scale aircraft. This model was covered with Japanese Esaki
tissue, which is still available from various suppliers, including
Brush three coats of nitrate dope on all of the balsa surfaces
that will touch the covering, sanding lightly between each coat.
A good choice of tissue color for this model would be yellow or
white rather than a dark color, which would require more coats
of final opaque color.
Determine the grain of the tissue and apply it lengthwise to
the wings. Cut sections slightly larger than the wing area you
Apply a dab of 50/50 thinned nitrate dope to the center root
section of the top wing rib and to the center section of the last