fighter was built
using Megow plans.
don’t want the paper to stick to the
The CA will set in a few minutes.
Don’t use accelerator because it will
roughen the finish. Sand it with 150-
grit sandpaper. Repeat the CA coating
and sand again with 150-grit sandpaper
followed by 220-grit or 320-grit
sandpaper. The mold will shine and be
ready to use.
Clamp the dowel in a vise, leaving
a few inches of clearance below the
mold so you can wrap the plastic tightly
against its sides.
I used to make a special holder for
the plastic. The holder had a hole in the
center slightly larger than the mold. The
problem was that the plastic tended to
tent away from the sides of the mold
unless the hole was the exact size.
Now I use two pairs of sticks to hold
the plastic sheet. For Dime Scale-size
canopies I use two pairs of craft sticks.
Each pair is held together with two
screws—one at one end, the other
roughly 2/3 of the way toward the free
end where you will hold the sticks.
Place opposite edges of the plastic
sheet between the sticks and secure them
with the screws. The other ends of the
sheet are not clamped or held in any way.
I use a hot plate to heat the plastic.
Heat the sheet until it becomes soft
and flexible. Because you are holding it
with the two pairs of sticks, it’s easy to
tell when it’s ready—or at least it will
be after a few tries! Plunge the plastic
quickly over the mold, bringing the
sticks together under the mold.
Before removing the canopy from the
mold, use a Sharpie to trace a cutting
guideline around the canopy. I had
some qualms before doing this the first
time, but it’s easy, fun, and it gives you
a sense of accomplishment. I use white
craft glue to hold the canopy in place. It
works better for me when I put glue on
both the canopy and the frame.
Bill Schmidt’s Curtiss F11C
Bill Schmidt has created another
beauty: a Curtiss F11C Goshawk.
Beginning with Dallaire plans that
he purchased from Golden Age
136 Model Aviation M AY 2014