get to a finished propeller, the finer the
sandpaper’s grit must be to prevent the
blades from becoming scored.
Shaping the blades is time-consuming
and tedious. Keep sanding and shaping
the propeller until you are happy with
the way it looks. The propeller should
look like the one shown in Photo 6.
Now it is time to finish it.
Finishing the Propeller
Shown in Photo 7 are the items
needed to complete the project. After a
final sanding of the propeller with 400-
grit sandpaper, spray it with Rust-Oleum
Varathane Crystal Clear Fast-Drying
Polyurethane semigloss spray. Two coats
will usually be sufficient.
To make the simulated “copper”
leading edge on the propeller, cut a
cardboard template, as shown in Photo
7, and mark this outline on the propeller
with a fine-point marker pen. Do both
the front and rear of the blades. Use
a small brush to paint this area with
Testors gold paint.
After the paint has dried, make a
tool as shown in Photo 7 with a wood
dowel handle and put a 1/16-inch piece
of tubing in it to simulate the soldered
screw holes along the blades. Grind
the tubing on the end to make it sharp
so it can be used for making round
indentations approximately every 1/2
inch. Use a toothpick to fill the holes
with silver paint as in Photo 7.
The next step is to cut out an
aluminum disk for the propeller hub.
Lay out eight equally spaced holes for
the propeller nuts. Next, drill the eight
holes in the propeller with a #35 drill
bit, roughly 1/4 inch deep. Cut eight
pieces of 1/2-inch 6-32 threaded rod and
install these in the propeller hub so they
Drill a small hole in 6-32 nuts so that
when they are put on the studs, a safety
wire can be run through them, as shown
in Photo 8.
As a final touch, I like to put the
Hamilton Standard logo decal on each
blade. See Photos 9 and 10.
One more thing—each time you carve
a propeller, it gets easier!
Keep ’em flying!
—Lawrence E. Klingberg
51 Model Aviation JUNE 2015 www.ModelAviation.com