The line guide is made from a nylon wingtip skid. It is simple and
durable. The line ends fit through the hole.
Making the tank is easier than it seems. Parts are
folded around a 1-inch ruler, ensuring a good fit. The
metal can be cut with scissors.
Assembly and Finishing
Decide how you plan to finish your Margaret June. I prefer a
fiberglass and epoxy finish for durability, but silkspan or carbon
veil and dope will work as well. I will describe my procedure,
but use whatever you prefer.
I find it easiest to glass the parts of the aircraft before they
are assembled. For a dope finish, you may want to assemble
the airplane first.
Sand all of the parts with 220-grit sand paper. If the fuselage
needs filler around the edge of the doublers or fin base, apply it
now so it will be beneath the fiberglass. I use Super Fil, a two-part epoxy filler made for full-scale aircraft. It is available from
Brodak Manufacturing or Aircraft Spruce & Specialty. Epoxy
and microballoons will also work.
After the filler has been sanded, the fuselage is ready to be
covered with 1.5- to 2-ounce fiberglass cloth. I use either Bob
Smith FINISH-CURE Epoxy or Pacer Z-Poxy Finishing Resin
to apply the fiberglass cloth to the wood.
Lay the fuselage inboard side up on some paint cans or drink
cans (full cans will be more stable.) Cut a piece of fiberglass
cloth at least an inch too large and lay it on the fuselage. Pat
it down and smooth it out as much as possible. Mix 1/2 ounce
of finish epoxy and pour a 1-inch puddle in the middle of the
fuselage on top of the cloth.
With a business card or playing card, spread the epoxy in all
directions. Keep pouring/spreading/scraping in all directions
until the cloth is wetted and smooth and there are no blobs
or puddles of wet epoxy. Don’t try to wrap the cloth around
the edges of the fuselage. Just let it hang. If you’ve scraped it
carefully, there won’t be much sanding required later.
Let it dry overnight then trim and sand the excess cloth
around the edges and fiberglass the other side in a similar
manner. Cover the wing and tail the same way. When all of
the parts have been glassed, sand them smooth with 220-grit
then 400-grit sand paper. If you sand through to bare wood
anywhere, seal it with a smear of finish epoxy or thin CA and
Bend the tail skid from 3/32-inch music wire. Drill several 1/8-
inch holes in the bottom of the fuselage to create a slot for the
tail skid. Prop or clamp the fuselage bottom side up, and epoxy
it in place. I use finishing epoxy for this because it is thin and
will seep down to the bottom of the hole. As the glue settles,
add more to the hole as required. When the leftover glue
begins to thicken, mix in a dab of microballoons and slightly
overfill the hole. Sand it flush after the glue cures.
The wing can now be glued into the fuselage. Use
15-minute epoxy for strength. Heat from a heat gun will
make the glue thin and runny and better penetrate the joint,
but too much heat will make the glue start to set. If the fit is
good without any gaps where you can see all the way through,
finishing epoxy can be used. Double-check the alignment
before the glue sets.
Make the line guide from a Great Planes nylon wingtip skid
(#GPMQ4445) as shown on the plans. Drill mounting holes
through the wing, and epoxy the guide in place. Cut and sand
the mounting pegs flush with the top of the wing.
Before gluing the stabilizer in place, don’t forget to put the
elevator through the stabilizer slot in the fuselage. The elevator
with the holes for the control horn should be
on the outboard side of the airplane. Glue the
stabilizer in place, making sure it is right side
up. Sew a couple of temporary hinges with
fine copper wire to hold the elevator during
the finishing process.
The tank is built next, because the tank
and fuselage need to be fitted to one another.
Make several photocopies of the tank patterns
and attach them to some K&S #254 easy-solder tin sheet with rubber cement or spray
adhesive. Cut the straight lines with a scissors,
and cut the “notches” with a Dremel tool and
cutoff wheel. Fold on the indicated lines. Fold
the parts around a 1-inch wide metal ruler for
maximum accuracy and minimum effort.
MJ 2 Model Aviation JUNE 2015 www.ModelAviation.com