A smoothly contoured nose makes the model look fast even while sitting still. Speeds are fast enough to be
fun, but not physically demanding. Sportsman Goodyear is a great introduction to CL Racing.
Make the wing cutout on the bottom edge of the fuselage
top using the actual wing as a guide. Make the 1/8-inch cutout
for the tail as well. Glue the 1/4 x 3/8-inch spruce stiffener to
the top edge of the fuselage bottom, and make the bellcrank
cutout in the fuselage bottom.
Join the fuselage top and bottom and you should have
perfect cutouts for the wing, tail, and bellcrank with a
minimum of fuss! Make the cutouts and install the maple
engine bearers using the spruce as a horizontal reference line.
Leave the outline of the top bearer oversized for now. It will
be sanded to final shape later. If you haven’t already done so,
glue the bottom spruce stiffener to the fuselage now. Using
the landing gear as a guide, drill the fuselage for the 3/8-inch
dowels that will prevent the landing gear from crushing the
Cut out the 1/16-inch plywood doublers. Cut the doublers
slightly oversized. They will be cut and/or sanded to size later.
Neither doubler should be cut away to fit the engine at this
Make the wing/bellcrank cutouts in the doublers as
accurately as possible. Taper the edges of the doublers, being
sure to make a right and left side. Epoxy the outboard doubler
in place. If necessary, peg it in place with toothpicks to keep
the wing cutout properly positioned. When dry, cut away the
doubler for engine mounting.
Turn the fuselage inboard side up. Drill the landing gear
mounting bolt holes through the 3/8-inch dowels installed
earlier, using the landing gear as a guide. Glue the inboard
doubler in place, again keeping the wing cutout properly
aligned. When dry, the nose of the airplane can be cut or
sanded to its final outline. Note that the inboard doubler does
not get cut away for the engine.
Tack the aluminum engine plate in position on the fuselage
with a drop of CA glue and drill the engine mounting bolts
and the small pilot holes for the screw that attach the pads.
Install 4-40 blind nuts for the engine. Remove the pads and
drill the landing gear mounting holes through the inboard
Test-mount the engine and landing gear to the fuselage and
slide the wing in place. Make any necessary adjustments or
Cut the 3/8-inch balsa cheek cowl to the same outline as the
plywood doublers. Firmly press it against the inboard side of
the fuselage to make impressions of the blind nuts in the balsa.
With a Dremel tool, make shallow recesses in the cheek cowl
for blind-nut clearance. Next, drill the landing gear mounting
holes through the cheek cowl using the fuselage as a guide.
Redrill the holes in the cheek big enough to clear the heads
of the landing gear mounting bolts. Cut away the back side of
the cheek cowl to allow the landing gear to slide in between
the cheek cowl and fuselage. Epoxy the cheek cowl to the
fuselage, making sure to seal the bare wood in the landing gear
mounting area. When it’s dry, install the plywood nose ring.
Cut the fin and rudder from 1/8-inch basswood and install
them on the fuselage. No rudder offset is used. Do not omit
the cross-grain top and bottom caps. They add considerable
stiffness without additional weight. Sand, contour, and taper
the fuselage as desired.
Stabilizer and Elevator
Cut the tail parts from 1/8-inch basswood. Again, do not
omit the cross-grain tips. Join the elevator halves with a 1/16-
inch wire joiner. Drill 5/64-inch holes for the hinges and control
horn. Round and/or taper the edges as desired. For proper
alignment later, mark the stabilizer so you can tell the top from
MJ 1 Model Aviation JUNE 2015 www.ModelAviation.com