Keeping Your Trim Centered
After the first test flight on a new airplane, or one that has
just had some repairs and requires retrimming, you should try
and reset the trim tabs back to center on your transmitter. This
way you do not need to remember what the trim setting was
in case you accidentally bump or move the trim tab.
This is not always easy to do. This quick, easy method
should get you close to having the trim tabs centered with the
correct amount of trim that you put into the control surface of
that airplane on its initial flight.
Let’s say, for example, that you had to add 10 clicks of up-elevator to trim your airplane during the initial flight. Turn the
airplane and the transmitter on. Move the trim tab back up to
center or neutral counting the number of clicks or beeps that
it takes you to center the trim tab—in this case, 10 clicks or
beeps. Then continue another 10 clicks or beeps in the other
direction. You moved the elevator trim tab up 10 clicks or
beeps to center and then up another 10 clicks or beeps toward
down-elevator for a total of 20 clicks or beeps.
Turn the airplane and transmitter off and adjust the linkage
on the elevator back to neutral by removing the clevis from
the control horn on the elevator. Turn the clevis in or out until
the elevator is centered to the horizontal stabilizer as it was
the first time you set up the elevator.
Reconnect the clevis to the elevator control horn. Turn the
transmitter and airplane back on and move the elevator trim
tab down 10 clicks or beeps so that the trim tab is now back at
center or neutral. With the elevator trim tab now back at zero
or center, the elevator surface will be in the same position ( 10
clicks of up elevator) as it was when it was trimmed during
that initial flight.
Cutting a Perfect Hole
When I built my first ARF, I wanted
to use an ArmSafe switch. I was unsure
how to cut a clean, round hole in the
fuselage to mount the switch. I searched
online and found this solution.
At a hardware store, you can purchase
a short piece of copper tubing and use
a Dremel or similar tool to cut and
sharpen one end. Trace the size hole
you need from the ArmSafe backing
plate and remove the covering from the
fuselage with a razor knife.
Place the sharpened end of the copper
pipe over the area to be removed and
rotated gently back and forth. The pipe
will work its way through the balsa and
cut a perfect hole.
I build 6mm foam board jets and use
lightweight 3M strapping tape for hinges
on the control surfaces. After using scissors
to cut the hinges to size, glue from the
tape will build up on the blades and make
them almost unusable after a while.
Not wanting to use chemical cleaners,
I asked my wife what she thought might
remove the built-up adhesive. I tried her
suggestion and it worked wonders.
The solution was simply to use peanut
butter. I just smear a little on the blade
and work it into the glue. I then use a
paper towel to easily wipe off the built-up glue. The solution works like a charm.
HT 1 Model Aviation JULY 2017 www.ModelAviation.com