The author used
tape along panel
lines to apply
The completed model with all of its equipment installed.
Click here for bonus
to iron-on covering should you choose to go that direction.
Fiberglass each surface, trim, and lightly sand when dry
with 400-grit sandpaper. I apply two additional coats of
polyurethane and sand between coats. At this point, the
surfaces should be ready for paint.
On the fuselage sides, take the wing panels and place the
LE and TE along the wing datum line formed by the LE and
TE holes you marked on the fuselage. Trace the airfoil outline
on each side and then cut out these sections, taking the inside
part of the former, too, so that the wing will slide through the
Now block up each wing panel for the 21/2-inch dihedral
and block sand the proper angle in each panel to ensure a close
fit. Join the wing by gluing the two together and give the seam
a narrow strip of fiberglass cloth on the top and bottom.
While this assembly is drying, cut out the horizontal
stabilizer sections on the fuselage sides and check for fit. Trim
to suit if necessary. Slide the wing into the fuselage, trimming
as required, and make sure it is square and centered to the
Glue the wing solid. Glue the elevator hinges in the
elevators only. Slip that section into the stabilizer slot first
and move it to the rear to allow the front stabilizer section to
be inserted. After both are in, glue the hinges into the front
Square up the complete assembly, being careful to level the
wing and measure the distance from the wingtips. When you
are satisfied that it is straight, glue in along the seams. Add the
vertical stabilizer and you should have a semi-profile Buffalo
The prototype used an E-flite Park 480
motor, but I chose an RCTimer A 3548/6
790 Kv motor for this version to give it
a more spritely performance. HXT-900
9-gram servos were used for both ailerons
and elevator. I installed the elevator servo
in the rear of the fuselage to allow a short
pushrod. A Turnigy OrangeRx receiver was
used and mounted in the central bay under
the wing, along with a 40-amp ESC.
When proper battery location was
established for the correct CG, a light
plywood battery box was glued in the
forward open bay behind the firewall. A
ParkZone Bf-109G three-blade propeller, a
Du-Bro 2-inch spinner, and a 3S 2,200 LiPo
battery work well with this power system.
I added 1/8-inch balsa doublers inside
the open bay under the wing, along
with a partial light plywood former
in the middle of that opening to
strengthen the area for hand launching.
Details and Finishing
I decided to finish this model as the
British export-version B-339E that was
flown by No. 242 Squadron Royal Air
Force in Malaya in 1941. Only a few
details were added, including exhausts
and the distinctive exposed wheels
along the fuselage sides.
The exhausts are simply aluminum
tubing painted a rusty exhaust color.
The wheels were made by chucking a
foam cylinder in my Dremel tool and
using sandpaper to shape them. These
details were added after the painting
I use common household acrylic latex
enamel to paint my models. Thinning
50 Model Aviation JANUARY 2016 www.ModelAviation.com