The fuselage is shown with all of the stringers in place.
There’s plenty of room inside the fuselage for the
radio gear and battery.
Photos by the author
standing upright. Make sure that they are and remain square
with the building board.
Glue the fuselage sides to these formers, then glue front
formers F3, F4, and F5 to the fuselage sides. Use squares to
keep the formers vertically and horizontally square. In the rear,
glue in the crossmembers ( 30), making sure that all remains
square. Glue in the battery floor ( 48) and the two hardwood
blocks ( 47) to the fuselage to support the landing gear.
Glue the top sheeting ( 42) to formers F3 and F4. Glue the
cockpit ceiling ( 42) to former F6. Between this ceiling and the
top sheeting ( 42), epoxy in the cockpit window frames. Glue
a small former to the top of the cockpit and then attach the
cockpit roof sheeting. Glue top formers F10 and F11 to former
F9 at the angle shown.
Next, glue formers F12 to F16 to the crossmembers. Glue
the stringers (40) to the formers. Behind former F16, glue
on the balsa sheet ( 51). To finish installing the top stringers,
the wing has to be bolted to the fuselage. Now pin and glue
the second set of formers F10 and F11 to the wing. Glue the
remaining stringer to formers F10 and F11 and the wing.
Remove the wing.
Cut out the plywood tail wheel bracket ( 53). Glue 1/16-inch
inside-diameter tubing ( 54) to it and secure the tubing to the
bracket with the strip of fiberglass. Glue this bracket to the
fuselage bottom and the hinge spar. Bend 1/16-inch piano wire
( 55) to shape as shown on the drawing to hold the tail wheel.
Slide in the U-shaped piano wire joiner to connect the
two elevator surfaces before installing the stabilizer. Slide the
stabilizer into the opening in the fuselage sheet ( 49) and glue
it in place. Glue the fin to the fuselage.
Main Landing Gear
Bend 1/8-inch piano wire to shape, as shown on sheet 2 of
the plans. Join the two wires by wrapping the joint with the
copper wire and soldering them to each other. On the dotted
lines in the vice, bend them on an angle as shown on the front
view. The same view shows what angle to bend the wheel axel.
The vertical telescopic legs are made from two streamline
tubes. The top ( 30) is glued to the bottom of the nacelle and
the bottom ( 31) freely rotates on the axel. When installing the
wing on the finished model, slide the bottom tubing into the
I used iron-on material
to finish the
bottom of the
wing and the
pull the motor
the holes in
plates ( 12)
and ( 13) into the wing. Place the wing on its back and secure
the nacelle alignment jig to the wing.
Epoxy the nacelle struts to the wing. Finish pulling the
motor wires all the way to the center of the wing between rib
W1, and finish covering the wing.
Cover the fuselage and tail surfaces. When finished covering,
mount the motors and connect them to the speed controllers.
On two speed controllers, remove the red wire from the plug.
Only one ESC needs the red wire to power the receiver. Install
the servos and the landing gear. Install the motor battery on
the battery floor so that the model balances on the center of
gravity spot shown on the drawing. That completes the Fokker.
There isn’t much to say about flying this model. First, test all
of the controls and perform a range test. Take off into the wind
by applying power and letting the model lift off on its own.
With its low wing loading, the model is a gentle flier. It is next
to impossible to spin it.
It’s best to fly the Fokker at a relaxing speed to give it
a scalelike appearance. Landings are a non-event. Simply
reduce power and let the model sink to the ground. When it
is roughly a foot above the ground, feed a little up-elevator
to bring the nose up and touch the ground. You can see some
of its flying characteristics in the flight video listed in the
“Sources” section. Good luck.
AMA Plans Service
(800) 435-9262, ext. 507
40 Model Aviation JANUARY 2016 www.ModelAviation.com