Photos by the author
Sand all carbon edges before beginning
your build. Wet sanding is recommended
to minimize carbon dust.
shows the gears
DryFluid Gear Lube.
ensures that the two members self-align
as you secure them to the carbon plate.
The battery tray tails are self-aligning
and have JR engraved on the upper
position. The engraving indicates
whether you have them on the correct
sides of the helicopter. There is a stop lip
at the rear of the rails.
Tail Pinion Unit and Upper Frame
To assemble the tail pinion unit, the
tail bevel gear must be inserted in the
bearing. This can easily be pushed in,
but the last bit takes a firm push and
you will hear a slight pop as it seats itself
in the bearing carrier.
The upper frame assembly includes
attaching the bearing blocks, left/right
servo mounts, and tail pinion unit
assembly. I began by fastening the items
to one frame half first. From there, you
can lay it on its side and attach the
other half. I did not use Loctite on any
bolts in this step because I prefer to
build the frames and then make sure
they are uniformly straight before final
When attaching the servo mounts,
you will notice that they can move
fore and aft. This allows them to
accommodate servos of different
case depths, so you can make small
corrections in the geometry for different
A unique feature of the motor
assembly is the size of the pinion—it
is the longest one I have seen in a kit.
The assembly manual photos don’t do it
I am running a KONTRONIK PYRO
750 motor with a long shaft and did not
have to make any cuts because the JR
pinion covers the shaft. JR has done this
to ensure that the pinion completely
engages the lower bearing support and is
then captured with the pinion nut. This
is a mechanically solid drivetrain and
should increase your motor bearings’
After you have completed the upper
frame assembly, it is time to attach
your motor-pinion assembly and the
radius arm. Examine the motor wiring
to make sure that it exits the side that
you want it to be on before inserting
the subassembly into the frame. When
inserted, you can choose to set your
mesh accordingly. Don’t forget the two
bolts that go in the back of the motor
assembly because they lock in your
mesh when everything is set.
As you attach your ESC plate, note
that you should not tighten the front
screws. This will be done during final
adjustments. At this point, I am still
keeping everything loose to make
Lower and Upper Frames
The lower frames have some simple
items to attach including the landing
gear stand-offs, along with the canopy
posts. From there you will begin joining
the upper and lower sections.
Before inserting the small carbon tray,
you must sand the edges slightly because
it is a tight fit. I prefitted mine. It is best
to follow the directions for sanding.
Landing and Main Gear
I like the landing gear width.
Although JR made the Forza’s frames
narrow and sleek, the company provided
wide landing gear.
Another nice feature is the soft rubber
skid inserts. Instead of the normal hard-to-fit plastic, the inserts are simple to
install with a small amount of CA.
The main gear is a beefy work of
art. There should be no stripping—it
is built like a tank. You will notice that
it is straight and true, with no high or
low points. The auto hub can easily
be inserted. One side of it is darker
metal than the other, as pictured in the
manual. Tighten the bolts in a crossing
pattern, and do not overtighten. This can
place opposing stress on the gear auto
After inserting the main gear and
66 Model Aviation DECEMBER 2014