11. After each wing is dried, it should
be removed from the building board.
Sand the LEs and TEs to an airfoil
shape, and then set aside to await
covering and assembly to the fuselage.
12. When the wing halves are fully
constructed, raise the tip of half of each
wing 3/4 inch to create dihedral. Be sure
to preserve the washout in the elevated
wing half by placing a support beneath
the tip of the wing’s TE.
D. Building the Fuselage
1. Cut the main fuselage parts from
1/16-inch sheet balsa. Use 1/32-inch sheet
for the sides of the top of the fuselage
ahead of the pilot’s headrest, the
landing gear struts, and the fuel tank.
2. Begin by pinning the 1/16-inch
square top of the fuselage side (top
longeron) firmly against the wax paper-covered plans.
3. To ensure strong joints, place
pins directly above of the top of each
longeron at the locations where it will
come in contact with each vertical
4. Cut lengths of 1/16-inch strip balsa
to the exact length of each vertical
5. Make certain that each vertical
upright, when in place, will firmly
contact the upper and lower longerons.
After cutting the vertical uprights, set
6. Pin an oversize length of 1/16-inch
square balsa strip against the plans at
the position shown for the fuselage’s
bottom longeron. Next, place each
vertical strip at its location on the
plans. Again, the fit should be snug.
7. Apply glue to the top and bottom
of each vertical upright and then set it
carefully in place between the top and
bottom longerons. Add sheet parts as
shown on the plans to the nose, wing
root, and rear motor peg area (slightly
ahead of the stabilizer slot).
8. To ensure good contact with the
top and bottom longerons, place a
pin firmly against the outside of the
bottom longeron at the strip’s location.
9. Repeat steps D2 through D8 to
build the second side of the fuselage.
Using the same pinhole locations from
the first side should make the second
side identical. Each side of the fuselage
should align with the other side.
10. The inside of each part of
the rear motor peg area should be
reinforced with 1/32-inch plywood,
which should be drilled out before
placing it inside the fuselage. Make the
hole slightly smaller than the diameter
of the rear motor peg. The rear motor
peg itself can later be snugly fitted with
the use of at small rattail file.
11. At this point, the fuselage
sides are ready to be joined. Begin by
carefully aligning and gluing the tail
ends of each fuselage side together at
the rearmost vertical spacer of each
12. Join the front ends of each
fuselage side to a temporary
rectangular balsa sheet spacer cut to
the inside dimensions of the nose. This
will be removed after the fuselage sides
are permanently joined by the 1/16-inch
13. Looking at the top view of the
fuselage shown on the plans, next
cut pieces of 1/16-inch square balsa to
the exact lengths shown between the
fuselage sides. One pair of pieces at
each location should be cut to keep
the sides parallel and the fuselage cross
14. Add triangular fuselage top
pieces 1 through 6 as shown on the
plans. In building the prototype, parts
5 and 6 had to be redrawn as shown
on the BL P-6E plans because they did
not create a rigid enough structure to
permit smooth covering of the top rear
of the fuselage.
15. Following the original design, the
top of the forward fuselage is made
from pieces of 1/32-inch balsa sheet that
join to form a triangular cross section.
To make the cockpit more closely
resemble a P6-E, the 1/32-inch sheet
portions were extended and redesigned
as shown on the plans and parts sheet.
16. Al’s Born Loser shows a balsa
nose block with an optional spinner.
Because this would be incorrect for a
P-6E, the nose block has been reshaped
to give it a more realistic look. The BL
P-6E also employs a detachable nose
block, which is mounted against a 1/32-
inch plywood former with a 1/2-inch
square hole cut in it to accommodate
the nose block plug. The nose block
may be carved either from a block of
balsa or laminated from pieces of 1/16-
inch balsa sheet as shown on the plans.
17. The landing gear is formed from
.025-inch music wire. To better meet
the BL P-6E’s unique wheel pant-and-strut combination, the landing gear
wire was cut to eliminate that portion
attaching to the wheels. Instead, the
wheels are inserted and held in place
in the pants with a portion of a straight
pin cut to length for that purpose.
18. The landing gear struts are made
by gluing two pieces of 1/32-inch sheet
to the landing gear wire. To facilitate
strut flexion, do not glue the struts to
the lower longeron. When the landing
gear struts are in place, the wheel pants
are carefully glued to the bottom of
the struts. Use care to evenly align the
wheel pants with each other.
19. The 0.16-inch music wire tail
skid shown for the Born Loser has
been replaced by a tail wheel fashioned
from sheet balsa to more closely
approximate the look of a P-6E.
E. Covering Instructions
1. Detailed directions for applying
the tissue covering are set forth on the
yellow instruction sheet included. Full-color tissue covering is available from
Air Ace Models.
May happiness and peace be with you
and yours in this holiday season and
the coming year.
Have fun and happy landings!
Air Ace Models
Dennis O. Norman
11216 Lake Ave.
Cleveland OH 44102-6102
Easy Built Models
National Free Flight Society
129-D Model Aviation DECEMBER 2014