The Air Ace Models Born Loser P-6E is presented
without covering at www.ModelAviation.com.
Air Ace Models has the entire kit and covering
available. Holly Chenail photo.
Click here to download free
plans of the Born Loser P-6E.
Because the Born Loser
P-6E is a modification of
Backstrom’s original, care will
be given to the steps needed
to specifically build the Born
Loser P-6E version.
A. Preliminary Steps
1. Begin by taping the plans
to a soft, flat, building board
(ceiling tile or something
2. Cover the plans with wax
paper or some suitable barrier
to prevent damage from glue
3. Most of the P-6E is built
from 1/16-inch square balsa
strip or 1/16-inch sheet balsa
stock. On the parts sheets,
you will note that 1/32-inch
sheet, 1/4-inch sheet, and 1/32-
inch sheet plywood are also
B. Building the Tail
1. The classic warm-up technique is
to build the rudder and elevator, using
straight pins to hold the components
firmly against the plans. To avoid
weakening the structure, place straight
pins around (not through) the strip
2. When the glue for the rudder and
elevator is dry, carefully remove the
pins and gently lift the components
from the plans. This is most effectively
done by sliding a thin piece of metal
between the balsa structure and the
wax paper-covered plans.
3. Once removed from the plans, any
excess dried glue should be cut away
from the joints. Components can be
rounded with sandpaper, but this step
is optional for a model of this size and
4. Having built the rudder and
elevator, set both aside until ready to
C. Building the Wings
1. Like the tail surfaces, the wing
is mostly built using a combination
of 1/16-inch square and 1/16-inch sheet
2. Carefully cut the wingtips, ribs,
and gussets from 1/16-inch sheet balsa
(see parts sheet).
3. Pin hard 3/32-inch square balsa
strips against the plans for the wing’s
leading edges LEs). The trailing edges
(TEs) are made from 1/16- x 1/8-inch
4. Elevate each half of the top wing
by placing a piece of 3/32-inch scrap
under the tips of the TEs on either
side. This will create a stabilizing warp
called washout in both sides of the
upper wing. When building the bottom
left half of the wing (pilot’s left),
elevate the tip of the TE 1/16 inch using
a piece of 1/16-inch scrap.
5. The right half of the bottom wing
is built the same as the top wing by
using a piece of 3/32-inch scrap under
the tip of the right TE.
6. The steps mentioned in C4 and
C5 create a warp in the bottom wing,
which will help stabilize the wing
in flight. The lesser washout used on
the left half of the bottom wing will
counteract the torque or twisting force
exerted by the propeller as the rubber
7. Note that the lower wing features
two ribs that align with the bottom
of the fuselage and help attach the
bottom wing. To help anchor the
covering, place a piece of 1/32- x 1/4-
inch piece of sheet balsa on the side of
each rib facing the wingtip.
8. Unlike the bottom wing, the top
wing center uses two ribs that are
placed 1/16 inch apart to form a slot for
the model’s pylon. Help anchor the
covering by placing a piece of 1/32- x
1/4-inch sheet balsa on the side of each
rib facing the wingtip.
9. The pylon enhances the design’s
stability. Make the pylon from 1/16-
inch balsa sheet as shown on the plans;
however, the prototype BL P-6E uses
an “open” pylon in which two pieces
of clear acetate are employed to create
the illusion that the upper wing is held
on by conventional struts.
10. Note that both wings employ
1/16-inch square balsa strips as spars.
These are on the top of each wing
only. For structural strength, 45°sheet
gussets (WG) are added to both wings.
Interplane strut receptacles are made
from 1/16-inch sheet.
129-A Model Aviation DECEMBER 2014